Today was a big mix of varied terrain and views, we had; Pine forests, Barren rocky hills, Pristine white sandy beaches, Boggy heather valleys, Craggy mountain views, Rocky lochside fishing villages, Wide open highlands, turquoise blue sea coves. But for the first half of the day, you’d have never known. It was veiled in thick impenetrable misty rain.
I only knew it was there because I’ve been up here before. There were glimpses of the landscape, but it was pretty wet to start. The roads were good tho. Nice wide fast sweeping roads, until all of a sudden the money must have run out and it was back to single track with passing places.
After a couple hours of riding we arrived into Ullapool and I made us take a tour thru the town. My exhaust was echoing off the stone cottages drawing looks. I was looking for a non-NC500 adjacent fuel stop, but Google failed me. Then i looked for a cafe and thought that one just out of town looked good, but they didn’t do food, just cakes. And while we like cake, I actually really like proper food for lunch. Back out into the rain for another hour of riding to Scourie.
As we are arrived, the rain stopped which was good because the place we found was a trailer with outdoors seating. The Crofters Kitchen was great food, but I really should have given the practicality of the food more thought. I got a bit carried away with having ultra fresh Scottish langoustines and forgot that they are incredibly messy and unfulfilling if you’re really hungry from biking for 4 hours. Absolutely amazing taste and incredibly fresh, but not a great idea to go for messy finger food if there is nowhere to wash your hands and you need to put your fingers back into soggy gloves. I washed my hands off in a stream, then rode gloveless to the local public loos to wash up before we carried on. Aimi had the fish tacos which was a much better idea.
Rounding the end of the mountain suddenly the sun appeared in full force. It was beating down and meant we immediately stopped and de-wet-geared as it was too hot to continue. It was so moody to see the clouds trying to flow in from the next valley but dissipate just at the ridge top. It looked like a wave that never crashed, just constantly rolling over itself.
Heading down the side of that inlet with threatening clouds on the hill to our right and bright blue water and sky to our left was incredible. We swept down that road, dodging campervans all the way to a huge buttress of rock at the end. Popped over a small bridge, and then rode all the way back to the mouth of the inlet. There is no bridge so it takes 40 mins to cover just a few lateral miles across the water. But it was a fun 40 mins.
Pulling up at a viewpoint with Adam and Edd, Aimi carried on up the hill in a grump. I’d exasperatedly tried to encourage her to pull up on gravel earlier which she hates. I know she’s a lot better than she gives herself credit for and she can definitely do it, but she doesn’t like the pressure and so got annoyed at me for trying to persuade her.
Adam on the other hand had nearly crashed on gravel, when a merc truck camper forced him off the road. I think that the cars and campers are jealous of how quickly we can cover ground so when the first 3 of us went past, they objected to Adam at the last and blocked the road.
The last bit of the road went up and over a wide open moorland. The sun was beating down thru bright blue sky onto beautiful mountains in the distance topped with a few fluffy clouds. It was so idyllic that we turned around and did that bit of road again so I could get it on the insta360.
A short while later we arrived at Borgie Lodge and THIS is what a Scottish highland hotel should be. It’s incredibly authentic, quirky and traditional all at the same time. Showing us to our room we entered through the bathroom, then through a low ceiling sitting room in the eves, to the bedroom at the end. It was so cute and odd!
Also the managers and waiters are all really funny and attentive. When booking dinner they asked if we had any allergies, and saying no, we just had a vegetarian with us, he looked at me and said “eew” haha! And then it was a joke that carried on throughout the evening. He even bonked me lightly on the head with a menu!
This is definitely the nicest place in Scotland I think we have ever stayed and we all agree we want to come back again.
The night ended with one round of whisky tasting and deep alcohol lubricated chats about life. It was a relaxing and fulfilling way to round off a really good day.
